Didier Pawlicki has twice changed my life.
At his first New York restaurant, cult favorite La Sirène, he redefined mussels, elevating them from occasional treat to life-altering cuisine. And now, with his second foray into the New York restaurant scene, Didier has made fondue ethereal at Taureau.
Located on 7th Street between 1st and A, the restaurant is unassuming from the outside, amongst all of the E-Vill bustle. Upon entering, however, I found Taureau to be warm, inviting and sensual.
Between the red and white decor and the flattering lighting, I can’t help but think that Taureau will be the place you bring a date you’d like to impress.
For those of you whom have never met Didier, or seen him in action at La Sirène, he is a force of nature. He has an unwavering obsession with client service; he creates dishes and restaurants that envelop the senses, make you feel at home and allow you to truly enjoy and discover foods “again for the first time.”
Truly a testament to Didier’s dedication to providing the warmest, friendliest and most comfortable environment possible, Taureau is welcoming, enticing and stimulating.
The food was wonderful. Not only was the design of the restaurant brilliant (built-in induction ranges in home-varnished heavy wooden tables), but the dinner was interactive, allowing diners to cook various cuts of beef or pork (or in my case, beef and pork) to their liking, enabling them to mix and match flavors and textures throughout the meal.
The “meat fondue,” or Fondue Bourguignon, provides a choice of filet mignon, hangar steak, top round or pork tenderloin as well as your choice of cooking oils, each of which is infused with thyme and bay leaf.
In addition to the Bourguignon, Taureau offers a cheese fondue. A rich, delicious, utterly satisfying selection awaits you. My favorite was the Pyrenees, a mixture of Swiss cheese, white wine, garlic and nutmeg, with the perfect balance of acidity and spice to really warm up your palate. Into this ambrosia you’re able to dip all manner of vegetables, sausages and bread.
And, ah, your palate. The restaurant is BYO, so you’re able to be creative in your choice of wine. If you’re going with one bottle, I’d suggest something flexible enough to go with your meat and cheese choices. For our meal, we had a bottle of Bordeaux. The dark, dark fruit on the nose and palate perfectly complemented the meat and the distinctly dusty tannins and full mouth-feel worked brilliantly with the texture and spice of the cheese fondue. If you bring along two bottles, I’d suggest checking the online menu to pair your wines, but above all, have fun with your choices.
Following the cheese course, we had a wonderful dessert of fresh fruit and dark chocolate fondue, ending the journey and sending us off into the night happy, full, and already planning our next trip to Taureau.
The flexible, corkage-free BYO policy is brilliant and very much appreciated. It’s as engaging as the meal itself. Didier enables his patrons to play an active role in their dining experience while simultaneously fulfilling their every need, resulting in a night to savor long after the meal ends. Delicious food, captivating atmosphere and an incredible host. Do yourself a favor and don’t hesitate.
Taureau is usually packed, so reservations by phone ((212) 228-2222) or OpenTable are highly recommended.
