White Wine and Red Meat, Living Together. Mass Hysteria!

Your waiter, your parents, your doctor, your dog walker, they all tell you that when you eat red meat, the obvious choice is to drink a red wine. In fact, they insist it is the right choice, the ONLY choice. Experts may tell you that structurally, only the flavors and tannic backbone of red wine will “hold up” to the richness of the meat, and zzzz… I’m sorry, where was I?

Heresy? Or pretty good idea?

Right. Your pairing choices are just that. Yours. And you shouldn’t be afraid to try unconventional choices simply because wine experts rarely recommend them. Please don’t get me wrong—the opinions of these experts are valuable because of their years of experience. I find certain experts’ viewpoints extremely useful guideposts for picking wines. But you are the one drinking, and hopefully enjoying, the wine.

Though there are many flavors in red wine that complement red meat (“game blood” being one of my personal favorites), white wines often have a brighter and more accessible range of flavors. By that, I mean often you taste a higher level of acid and minerality (i.e. yum) and the flavors and smells of the white wine are more readily compared to everyday flavors (e.g. green apple, citrus peel).

Now, why would that make you feel better about ordering a Riesling at the steakhouse to go with that porterhouse for four, while the table next to you has a manly bottle of Pinot Noir or California Cab? Because it’s precisely those bright flavors and bracing levels of acid and minerality that cut through the richness of the meat, accentuate its flavors by providing a refreshing contrast, cleanse your palate and make your taste buds sit up and beg for more.

Not all white wines are up to this task. Typically, “oaked” or “buttery” wines will not have this bracing zip. That said, if a California Chardonnay is your true love, then have at it! You’re the one drinking. But if you’re feeling adventurous with your next foray into red meat or pork and looking for a white that more closely mirrors that great tannic backbone of certain reds, grabs your tongue and takes it for a ride, then I highly recommend the following: Alsatian Pinot Gris or Rieslings with a low residual sugar content, Muscadet-sur-Lie from the Loire Valley and perhaps Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or the Loire Valley. I also really enjoy “brut” sparkling whites in this context.

But it’s more than just the “backbone” of a wine that I think works well here. I truly believe that many of the flavors in many whites are complementary to red meat. Often the citrus or even slight sweetness of a wine can prevent the meat’s richness from overwhelming your palate. These pairings seem to work well when the preparation of the meat is on the simpler side. Any time you have a sauce (especially red wine based…), the complementary nature of the white wine’s flavors may be lost in the mix.

As far as specific recommendations, I highly recommend Marcel Deiss‘s beautiful Riesling from Alsace.

Alsatian Riesling, for the win.

This Riesling’s got an unbelievable feel to it, almost effervescent, with a fantastic mineral, wet stone and herb nose that really made my mouth water. There’s also just a hint of gasoline on the nose which may sound unpleasant but was actually really intriguing and enjoyable. There’s undeniable honeyed fruit on the palate, but the wine has a low residual sugar content and is beautifully balanced by a high level of acidity. This bracing mix of flavors really knocked my socks off when paired with a Florentine-style steak.

Above all, please, please, please enjoy whatever wine you like with your meal. My only hope here, as it will always be, is to give a few suggestions to broaden your horizons and try to help you to enjoy your meal and your wine to the fullest extent possible.