When most people think of Italian Food and New York, they think Little Italy. Now, I don’t know about you, but dodging fifty-million tourists in the middle of the street for some generic spaghetti is not my idea of a culinary adventure. So I stayed away from my favorite boot-shaped country for a bit. And then, I noticed something missing in my life: there was a pasta-shaped hole in my soul. So when fellow Luxury Spot food critic Robert and I went to BiCE in Midtown, I was ready fill the gap.
With vaulted ceilings and minimalist style art on the walls, BiCE has a relaxed vibe to it. The crowd was business casual, but not pretentious. BiCE has been in the same location since 1982, longer than most NY restaurants last, let alone stay in one place. It’s like walking into the living room of someone you’ve known forever, albiet someone with a very nice house. The kitchen at BiCE is serious business. With a staff of over 70, they make their own pasta fresh every day, so there is no need to freeze anything. Chefs are occasionally rotated from their various restaurant locations throughout the world, each bringing an individual flavor to the menu. Our waiter commented, “You can’t be married and have that job!”
The menu is mostly Italian comfort food, yet features a few noticeable twists. You don’t expect to see a tuna tartar appetizer at your traditional red sauce joint but the Tartata Di Tonno, mixed with cucumber, avocado, ginger, soy sauce and a mango vinaigrette dressing, was a welcome surprise for an appetizer. The light mango flavor keeps you guessing, you don’t feel like you’re eating sushi. The avocado and ginger are just a natural fit. I planned to save room by not finishing the appetizer, but that was a losing battle. Avocado appeared in the Insalata Gloriosa as well, a fairly straight ahead salad, made to stand out with the addition of the avocado, topped with a tangy anchovy dressing, reminiscent of a cesar salad, without the heaviness. The Focaccia bread on the table is also baked in–house daily, which when combined with olive oil, presents a new foe in the classic challenge of “not filling up on bread.”
I can honestly say I had never been floored by a piece of pasta. Whether it be at a restaurant or made at home, I just saw it as a vehicle to carry sauce. This all changed with the second course. The Papparadelle Al Telefono incorporated a simple combo of basil-tomato sauce and mozzarella with large ribbon pasta that was the definition of al dente—the texture was just perfect. This dish could do no wrong. The sauce and pasta combined to create an alliance worthy of some medieval dragon type name, but Papparadelle will have to suffice. Honorable mention went to the Cavatelli a ricotta dumpling served with chicken sausage, broccoli, and cherry tomatoes. The chicken sausage carried just a bit of spice, making it jump out from the pasta.
Any of the pasta dishes would make a great meal on their own, but we were ready to move onto bigger things, it was time for the main course. Here are Robert’s thoughts on one of BiCE’s signature dishes, the Ossobuco:
The Ossobuco is BiCE’s crown jewel and for good reason. The braised veal shank is served with a parmesan risotto in a porcini mushroom truffle sauce. At first, I found the risotto to be overpoweringly rich. However, it turns out that the risotto is not meant to be enjoyed on its own. The problem with veal shank is that it is traditionally a very lean meat, and as casual readers of this blog know, I prefer meat that has good amount of marbling. The preparation of a rich and creamy risotto with the shank is meant to complement the leanness of the meat, and in this case, it does so wonderfully. My favorite part of osso buco, however, has always been, and likely always will be, the marrow. For the uninitiated, the ossobuco is actually so named because of the marrow. (“Osso” means “bone” and “buco” means hole.) Now, I know marrow is sort of an acquired taste, but if you ever wanted to try it, BiCE is definitely the place to do it.
This was my first time trying marrow, and I am now a supporter. It’s like steak caviar.
Now for the desserts, you’re pretty safe closing your eyes and pointing, but let’s discuss some extraordinary members of this post-entree category. The white and dark chocolate/mixed berry mousse caught my attention instantly. Each distinct flavor stood out yet contributed to the whole, it was like The Beatles, minus Ringo. The Profiteroles, a small pastry filled with icre cream, covered in chocolate sauce, held their own, as did the warm centered chocolate cake with some excellent vanilla ice cream. But the standout was a traditional large Cream Puff . It was like eating a croissant filled with homemade whipped cream. This leads me to conclude that any place known for pasta, I will trust with my pastry.
You expect any Italian restaurant to perfect traditional dishes, but BiCE throws in a few unexpected standouts. Open with any pasta dish, especially if you have not tasted homemade pasta before, and if you’re feeling adventurous and hungry, the Ossobucco is a great place to start. Leave room for dessert no matter what though, if you pass it up and happen to view some Profiteroles on a nearby table…well, thats a regret you just don’t want to live with.
